Becoming a Canine Good Citizen
Started in 1989, the AKC's Canine Good
Citizen (CGC) Program is a certification program designed to reward dogs who have good
manners at home and in the community. It is a two-part program that stresses responsible
pet ownership for owners and basic good manners for dogs. All dogs who pass the 10-step
CGC test may receive a certificate from the American Kennel Club.
 In demonstrating social skills that will foster good
citizenship and manners in public settings, a dog needs to
be able to respond to the cues of heel,
sit, down, and stay. Of
course, there are many other ideal behaviors as well such as
come, leave it, look, watch me,
drop or give, and take. Training your
dog to understand these cues stimulates his or her
intelligence and strengthens the bond and relationship with
your dog.
Many dog owners choose Canine Good Citizen training as the first step in training their
dogs. The Canine Good Citizen Program lays the foundation for other AKC activities such as
obedience, agility, tracking, and performance events. As you work with your dog to teach
the CGC skills, you'll discover the many benefits and joys of training your dog. Training
will enhance the bond between you and your dog. Dogs who have a solid obedience education
are a joy to live with-they respond well to household routines, have good manners in the
presence of people and other dogs, and they fully enjoy the company of the owner who took
the time to provide training, intellectual stimulation, and a high quality life.
The CGC Program welcomes both purebred and mixed-breed
dogs and there is no age limit. Truly, it is never too late
to teach an old dog new tricks, as they say. There is NO
AGE LIMIT for dogs taking the CGC Test. The test is
non-competitive. This test of your dog’s basic manners and
learning skills is not a competition and as such, does not require that you and
your dog perform with precision. Also, that means you are allowed to talk to
your dog throughout the test as the testing environment should be a relaxed one.
You are not permitted to use food during testing as the examiner wanted to
determine if you can control your dog's behavior without artificial incentives.
However, you should be giving praise, smiles, hugs and pats throughout.
Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, the owner must present a current rabies
certificate and any other required inoculation certificates and licenses. The owner also
needs to sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. Responsible dog ownership is a key part
of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's
health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show
responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and
never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others. After signing the Responsible Dog
Owners Pledge, the CGC test can begin. Equipment
— All tests must be performed on leash. Dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip
collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars,
head halters, etc. are not permitted in the CGC test. We recognize that special training
collars may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs
are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to regular
collars. The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should
bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.
 Encouragement — Owners/handlers
should give praise, smiles, hugs and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may
pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is
the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food
and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process
but these items should not be used during the test. In effect, the examiner
wants to determine if you can control your dog's behavior without artificial
incentives.
Failures & Dismissals — Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to
this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is
held outdoors. Also, any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a
person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.
Dogs must demonstrate confidence and control by
completing the following 10 Canine Good Citizen Test steps.
Explore each to learn the requirements as well as how to
train for meeting success. (Click
here for a short pictorial representation of the 10 tasks below.)
up
 TEST 1: Accepting a Friendly Stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and
speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog
and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator
and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment
or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #1
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
Your dog needs to be shown how to behave when you
meet friends on the street or welcome them into your
home. No one enjoys a lunging, jumping dog, and
some people are afraid of such an animal.
Initially work with one adult 'helper'. Have your
dog on leash sitting next to you and have the
'helper' approach silently. If the dog remains
sitting, he/she immediately gets a great treat (you
or the 'helper' can deliver the treat). If the dog
jumps up, or even gets up, the 'helper' keeps
walking past. Be sure to keep the leash loose so
the dog has the opportunity to make a choice.
The theory is that dogs love greetings and they love
treats. If we get the behavior we want the dog gets
the good stuff too. If the dog chooses a "bad"
behavior, all possibility for social exchange (and
treats) is removed!
We have started with the easiest situation possible;
The dog is sitting (the 'default' position) and the
person approaches silently. Once the dog
understands what is expected, raise your
expectations a little. The person approaching says
a calm (flat tone) greeting "Hi, how are you". Once
the dog has had a few successes begin to make the
verbal greeting more excited, "HI, HOW ARE YOU?"
. When that's successful make the greeting as wild
and excited as possible.
Remember, with each successful greeting the dog gets
a great treat and with every failed response nothing
happens at all, the greeter just clams up and keeps
on walking! Sometimes you may see the dog really
work to 'do the right thing' ( he/she almost jumps
up but shows restraint at the last instant). This
is a JACKPOT moment (a handful of treats - given to
the dog one at a time), it's a big reward for extra
effort.
Arrange numerous social encounters by inviting
friends to your home or by taking walks in your
neighborhood. Keep your leash handy when you are
home so you can snap it on your dog as soon as the
doorbell rings. Before your dog shows excitement at
someone’s approach, have him sit and stay as you
pause to shake hands. (NOTE: Also see training for
Test 6.) The “stay” helps to keep excitable dogs
under control. Praise your dog when he obeys.
Now it's time to practice with the dog in motion,
since this is even harder.
Approach each other (silently) and stop at a
comfortable conversational distance. Ask the dog to
"sit" the first few times as you stop. Use the same
criteria as explained above. When that's successful
do not cue the sit, expect the dog to sit
automatically. Remember, treats for a successful
response and nothing for a goof!
Raise your expectations as the dog's skills improve. Approach each other with a calm greeting, more
excited greeting, and finally with wild greetings.
Once the dog has learned how to approach one person
we must teach him to generalize the behavior to all
people. Start the process over with a new person. It will go much faster with the second person. When the dog is always successful start over with a
third person. You will know your dog has
generalized the learning when you can approach
anybody and your dog chooses to sit automatically
every time.
It may take many repetitions for your dog to realize
that social encounters at home and in public must be
met in a civilized way. If you are consistent in
showing your dog how you expect it to behave when
you meet friends and strangers AND reward the
behavior you want, he will soon respond with poise.
This process will take time but the results are well
worth it! It's really impressive to people when
your dog automatically sits in greeting situations
and it makes it a lot easier and more fun for you
too! |
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TEST 2: Sitting Politely for
Petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while
it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the
exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or
her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must
not show shyness or resentment.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #2
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
In public, strangers will want to meet your budding
Canine Good Citizen. You have already accomplished a
large part of this exercise by teaching you dog to
pay attention to you and ignore pedestrians in
public and to react calmly to visitors at home.
Getting your dog accustomed to being touched all
over his body will be helpful for this exercise. For
five minutes every day, pet and massage your dog’s
face, ears, down his spine and legs while giving him
treats. Handling exercises will be more successful
if you take advantage of quiet times when your dog
is already relaxed. Continue massaging down his back
and gently give a tug to his fur and tail, all the
while giving him treats. This will make touching a
positive experience.
When your dog is comfortable with handling, have him
remain sitting while you and family members approach
and pet him. Then practice with people the dog knows
and likes. Start with simple touching and reward
your dog. Approach from all angles, (side, back,
front). Gradually escalate to more vigorous petting
without getting the dog overly excited. Reward
successful responses. If he becomes too excited,
(jumping, barking, or wiggling), remove your
attention and wait for calmness. Reward calm
behavior.
As soon as your dog learns to remain calm while
being petted by those it knows, you can allow
strangers to do the same. Remember that many
individuals, especially children, do not know how to
approach animals and may need some guidance. |
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TEST 3: Appearance and Grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined
and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so.
It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator
inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in
healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should
supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or
brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up
each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the
examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement
throughout.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #3
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
Gentle combing and brushing are a natural extension
of petting and stroking. Your dog should receive
gradual, positive conditioning to being groomed and
examined from puppyhood on. Introduce your dog to
brushing sessions by allowing the dog to sniff the
brush and then give 2-3 strokes down his back, give
him a special treat and end the session. Handle his
front paws and other parts of his body, (head, ears,
lips) in a similar way. Gradually increase the
amount of time that you spend touching your dog all
over. Begin right away if you acquire an adult dog.
If your dog fears this type of handling or becomes
uncertain when its ears or feet are touched, spend
time allowing him to associate grooming and human
touch with a happy experience (such as vocal praise
or training treats) when he gives the slightest
positive response. Pleasant daily handling and
grooming will help you recognize physical problems
early on, and your dog will learn that being
examined and groomed are a welcome part of everyday
life. Once your dog is comfortable being groomed and
examined by you, ask someone else to do the same
using the “sit,” “down” or “stand” cue, if you wish.
Your dog will then be ready for visits to pet-care
professionals and for Canine Good Citizen Tests 1-3. |
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TEST 4: Out for a Walk (Walking on a Loose Lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on
either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is
attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of
direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when
the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the
handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a
right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at
the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands
in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #4
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
As with all training exercises you will want to
start in an area with the least distractions, build
on success and gradually take your dog out where
there are people and other dogs.
You can begin teaching this exercise by showing your
dog a treat to entice it to move with you as you
begin to walk. Treats motivate the dog to stay in
the proper place, and praise reinforces him.
Eventually, your dog will develop a habit of moving
happily in the desired position, and the treats can
gradually be eliminated. Always continue to use
praise.
Here are three methods for training the loose leash
walk. You can practice any or all. For all of them
the starting positions are the same. Neatly fold the
leash accordion-style into your right hand, with the
part going to the dog coming out the bottom of your
hand, and hold your hand against your belt buckle.
Deliver treats with left hand. Position the dog on
your left side in a sit position.
“Be a Tree”
Begin walking in a straight line. Praise and reward
every few steps as your dog is walking without
pulling. If your dog begins to pull ahead, just stop
and wait, (Be a Tree). When your dog sits and/or
looks at you, praise and treat. He should now be
back near your leg, have him sit on your left side
and take 2-3 steps. Repeat “Be a Tree” as often as
needed. It may take several repetitions. Your dog
will learn when the leash tightens, forward progress
stops. Do not take any steps forward as long as the
leash is tight. Every time your dog pulls and is
successful he is learning that pulling works.
“Penalty Yards”
Another good way to practice is when your dog pulls,
stop and take a few steps backwards. You can pat
your leg and encourage him to come to your left
side, praise and reward. Put him in a sit and take a
few more steps forward. Remember to praise and
reward when he is walking on a loose leash. Repeat
“Penalty Yards” as needed.
“Turn and Go”
When your dog pulls, stop, make a right about turn
and walk a few steps in the opposite direction. When
your dog is near your left side, and is moving
without pulling, praise and treat. You should never
jerk on the leash. You do not have to guide, steer
or drag your dog on the leash. Whenever your dog
chooses to stop paying attention to you and pulls
the leash tight you should simply stop. The dog has
caused the tight leash, not you. Wait for him to
give attention to you, praise and reward and
reposition him.
For dedicated pullers, this will require lots of
practice, but after a few successful reinforcements,
your dog will start to get the idea. You will begin
to see him reposition himself as soon as the leash
tightens or when you stop. As he begins to pay more
attention to you, add right turns, left turns, about
turns and sits at your side when you stop. |
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TEST 5: Walking through a Crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and
is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to
several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but
should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or
resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the
test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #5
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
Because you have already practiced loose-leash
walking in your neighborhood, your dog is probably
used to encountering people. If however there is no
one around, go to a grocery store, pet supermarket,
downtown or to the local playground. With an
excitable dog, try to work up to close encounters
gradually until your dog is comfortable and
controllable. For example, choose a quiet weekday
evening for a walk in town before you choose a busy
weekend.
For this exercise, you will want to have your dog in
a “heel” position, rather than the more lenient
“loose leash”. “Heel” is typically used when you
need your dog to walk in a controlled fashion by
your side (in crowds, when crossing streets, or when
passing people on the path who may be afraid of
dogs). Practice heeling in an area with no
distractions. Use a handful of food lures and
position your dog at your left side, his head should
be lined up with your left leg.
Begin by placing your dog in a sit on your left.
Hold the lure in your left hand two inches above
your dog’s nose level and parallel to your left leg.
Your hand should be as close to your left leg as
possible. Say your dog’s name, “heel” and step out
with your left foot, use the lure to keep him in
heel position. Take no more than a few steps, praise
and reward frequently, giving out the treats one at
a time. His eyes should be on you at all times. When
you stop, have him sit. Eventually, he will learn to
sit automatically when you stop. Repeat taking just
a few steps at a time. If he breaks heel position,
you are probably taking too many steps or there may
be too many distractions.
As your dog becomes more proficient, you can begin
to fade the food and bring your hand in front of you
at your waist. This may take several weeks of
practice. Go back to using food if you see
regression. |
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TEST 6: Sit and Down on Command and Staying in Place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's
commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or
down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command,
then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test,
the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable
amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The
evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler
may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When
instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the
length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in
the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the
handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #6
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
Sit and Down
If you are like most dog owners, you have already
taught your dog to sit on command. Maybe you have
also taught your dog to down and, if so, you can
skip this part and go right to the section on
staying in place.
To teach your dog to sit, hold a piece of food in
front of his nose, and lift the treat up over his
nose and forehead. Keep the treat very close to your
dog’s body as you say “sit.” As your dog looks up at
the reward, his rear will settle into a sit. Praise
and reward instantly.
To teach the down, put the food in front of your
sitting dog’s nose and slowly lower it to the ground
slightly ahead of its feet while saying “down.” As
your dog reaches down for the reward, it will lower
the front end of its body. As soon as his chest is
on the floor praise your dog and instantly give it
the treat.
Practice these exercises several times in a row over
a period of several days. Gradually bring in
distractions until your dog responds reliably to
either cue in public places.
Staying in Place
With your dog at your side, ask him to sit or down.
Once he is in position, you are ready to teach a
“stay” cue.
Lower your hand, palm towards the dog’s face, as a
signal to stay as you say the word stay. Then stand
right in front of your dog’s nose. Remain there for
a few seconds. If he starts to break position, use
“uh,oh” or “oops” and reposition him. When your dog
remains in place, go back to his side, praise,
reward and release him. Practice this several times
over a period of several days.
As soon as your dog understands what stay means,
start adding time (about 10 seconds per day), then
bring in distractions. Only when your dog is
reliable under distractions for a period of 1-2
minutes on a sit and 2-3 minutes on a down should
you gradually begin to move farther away from your
dog. Move in closer and reduce the time if you
experience difficulty, and be sure to practice the
cues on-leash. Before you know it, you will wonder
how you and your dog ever managed to live together
without the “sit,” and “down” and “stay” behavior
cues. |
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TEST 7: Coming when Called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler
will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may
use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to
"stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions
to the dog.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #7
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
To begin teaching your dog to come, put your dog on
leash. Allow him to go to the end of the leash and
call his name enthusiastically. Take a few quick
steps backwards, patting your leg and saying “come”.
When he comes when called, give him lots of praise
and treats. Bring the treat in close to your body,
so that he will come close to you. When he reaches
you, prolong your reward and praise so your dog will
want to stay with you. Also at this point, it is a
good idea to gently take hold of his collar with one
hand and treat with the other hand. Then release
him.
Increase the distance gradually using a long line or
retractable leash. Avoid using the leash to drag him
to you. Practice calling your dog to you at least 5
times a day. This cue should always be associated
with good things. Don’t call your dog to you to do
something unpleasant (scolding, nail clipping, end
of play) or he will not want to come next time.
If your dog does not come when called, go get him
and go back to practicing the “come” on leash. You
should not let your dog off leash until you have a
reliable recall on leash, with distractions, in many
different locations. |
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TEST 8: Reaction to Another Dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two
handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake
hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show
no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its
handler.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #8
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
If you are working alone and there are few people in
your neighborhood who walk their dogs, you will need
to go where dogs are, such as a boarding kennel,
grooming salon, veterinarian's office or pet
supermarket. These places offer opportunities to
practice good canine-to-canine manners and are also
locations where you need your dog and the other dog
to be under control.
If you have already accomplished the stay exercise
with distractions, you can consider this exercise as
just one more example of a distraction. Start from a
safe distance, moving as far away as need be so that
both dogs in the encounter feel secure. When your
dog becomes confident, you can move closer to
approaching dogs and handlers. To begin, every time
you see a dog and handler walking, ask your dog to
“stay” in either a sit or down position as they pass
by. Use encouragement and “jolly talk” and lots of
praise and rewards. Be aware of the leash in your
hands. Do not tighten up on it in anticipation of
what you fear might happen. This will send a clear
message to your dog that something “scary” is about
to happen.
Dogs performing the Canine Good Citizen Test have
had an introduction to this exercise, but be alert
when practicing in real life. Unfortunately, the dog
you are approaching may not be trained and may have
poor manners. In fact, dog owners may comment on
your dog’s good manners. You and your dog will be
helping to educate the public, and you may even find
other dogs and handlers to train with!
Practice this exercise until your dog reacts
reliably to canine encounters. It should show no
more that mild interest in the approaching dog and
handler so you can stop, shake hands and go your own
way. |
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TEST 9: Reaction to Distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common
distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples
of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a
jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural
interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to
run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or
praise it throughout the exercise.
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #9
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
Life is full of surprises and your dog should react
calmly to most of them. Through exposure to everyday
situations, your dog has probably learned to ignore
the distractions used in this test. But if it rarely
sees a bicycle or has taken to barking and
fence-running when he sees a jogger, you may be in
for an embarrassing surprise when you are with your
dog in public.
If you dog shows fear of unusual objects, sounds or
movements, you should help it by briefly exposing it
to these things in a non-threatening environment,
preferably at a comfortable distance. Praise,
treats, toys and playful interaction may eventually
take his mind off fear and help him associate what
was once frightening with positive experiences.
As your dog becomes more confident, you can
gradually bring the distractions closer. For
example, a heavy book dropped right behind a dog’s
back may cause an inexperienced or sound-sensitive
dog to panic; but a heavy book dropped 60 feet in
front of the same dog may not even be noticed.
Gradually moving the book closer, to the side of the
dog and, finally, behind his back will desensitize
the dog in a positive way.
If your dog shows aggressive behavior, the same
technique may be applied by exposing the dog
gradually, and at a distance, to the things that
trigger his reaction. Reward calm behavior.
CAUTION: AVOID CODDLING! As tempting as it may be,
do not allow yourself to coddle and comfort your
dog. You will be rewarding and reinforcing his
timid, fearful behavior, not giving him confidence,
like you might think. If you act concerned, he will
be even more convinced that there is something to be
afraid of. You will do better to act matter-of-fact,
yawn as if your bored, or jolly him up, and let him
know that there’s nothing wrong. Try to keep him
focused on a task that requires active thought. Eye
contact and heeling (or any other behavior cues) are
useful in many cases because the dog stays focused
on you. |
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TEST 10: Supervised Separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and
will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like,
"Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash.
The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in
position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything
stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not
engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g., "There, there,
it's alright").
| HOW TO TRAIN FOR TEST #10
(Copyright
© Delta Society and Denver Pet Partners) |
As you and your dog work together, you will discover
a bond developing that is based on trust. Not only
will you begin to trust your dog’s manners, but he
will trust you and your judgment, even if the dog is
occasionally left in a strange place, such as a
friend’s home, a grooming shop or a boarding kennel.
Prepare your dog by going out of sight for a few
seconds as you practice distance on your dog’s
“stay” behavior. You can walk into another room or
around the corner. If you use a long line and hold
on to it, you will know if your dog moves, even if
you cannot see him. Or you can position yourself
opposite a mirror, so you can see him but he doesn’t
see you. Use the correction “oops” or “uh, oh” if he
breaks position or vocalizes, and repeat the
exercise making it easier for him to succeed
(shorter time out of sight). If you “disappear” for
only a few seconds and never go any great distance,
your dog will learn that you are never far away,
even when he cannot see you.
As soon as your dog feels comfortable when you go
out of sight, you can stop using the “stay” cue. You
might want to introduce a new cue such as “wait
here” or “I’ll be back.” That will help your dog
understand that he can remain calm and not try to
run away or vocalize, but need not remain in a
specific position.
Gradually increase the time you are out of sight,
and add social distractions until you have worked up
to three minutes. When possible, have a helper work
with you on this exercise so that your dog learns to
be briefly separated from you and to stay with a
person you trust. |
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