Natural Dental Cleaner for Tartar
FREE USA SHIPPING!
"If you've ever tried to brush your animal's teeth, you'll know it isn't the
most pleasant task. Imagine
how much easier it would be if you could just pop something in his mouth that
would clean his teeth simply and naturally. Enter Leba III, an
easy-to-use herbal product that you spray in your animal's mouth every day. Leba III works by stimulating the enzymes in the
saliva and gradually cleaning away the plaque buildup that can lead to
periodontal disease. The product not only does away with home brushing but also
helps protect your pet from the trauma of undergoing anesthesia for a
professional cleaning." —
Tim Hockley, President of Animal
Leba III, which had a 100% response in double blind testing, keeps
your dog's teeth clean with just 1-2 sprays at morning and 1-2
night. We believe our dogs do better on a
twice-a-day regimen, having used the product since January 2005. We even use
it ourselves as it keeps your teeth feeling so smooth.
For smaller dogs and cats who have smaller mouth openings,
you may want to utilize an eye dropper. First, spray the desired amount into
the clear cap. Next, use the dropper to remove the liquid from the cap, and
squirt out onto your pet's tongue. To prevent contamination, then clean the
cap and dropper so that you will be ready for the next application.
Distilled water, Ethyl alcohol 25%, Lamiaceae
& Rosaceae in trace elements. The 1-ounce bottle contains
ADMINISTRATION: Keep at room temperature, away from
direct sunlight. Give no water or food ½ hour before & ½ hour after spraying
into your dog's mouth onto the tongue. Leba III is
not be used with any other dental products (e.g., products added to drinking
water). As toothpaste leaves a residue on the teeth, only warm water or tooth
oil (below) is recommended when brushing.
Under 50lbs = 1 spray a.m. / 1spray p.m.
Over 50lbs = 2 sprays
a.m. / 2 sprays p.m.
NOTE: This item
is only available to USA customers, with a USA email address as well.
have 28 temporary teeth that erupt at about three to four weeks of
age. They have 42 permanent teeth that begin to emerge at about four
Come Chew on These Facts
disease is the most frequently diagnosed health problem for dogs. It
begins with a buildup of bacteria in the dog's mouth. Unfortunately,
lots of people don't realize
that there is a need for preventive dental care until they notice their dog's
breath has become unbearable.
Just feeding a dry food and offering hard bones will not keep your dog's teeth clean
as harder foods are unable to remove plaque below the gum line. Giving your dog very hard objects is
actually a primary cause of broken
teeth. According to Thomas Mulligan, DVM, a
board-certified veterinary dentist,
"That's [plaque] the real enemy. The bristles of a toothbrush can reach into the
groove along the gum line. That's where all the action is."
Aggressive chewing on hard objects,
such as commercially available cow hooves, is a primary cause of
broken teeth in dogs. But, chewing on hard toys can be
dangerous as well. To help prevent such breakage, watch to see how your dog chews on
his toys. If s/he is
aggressively biting down, trying to crack the toy, do not let your
dog continue. If you have any aggressive
chewers, look for toys they cannot get their mouths around. Chews that soften as the dog chews are an
astounding 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of
oral disease by age three, according to the American Veterinary
Dental Society (AVDS). Yet, by providing good oral hygiene for our
furry guys, we can extend their lives by two to five years!
Bacteria, combined with saliva and food debris between the tooth and
gum, can cause plaque formulations that accumulate on the tooth. As
bacteria grow in the plaque and as calcium salts are deposited,
plaque turns to tartar.
Symptoms of gum disease in dogs include yellow and brown build-up of
tartar along the gum line, inflamed gums and persistent bad breath.
tartar is not removed from the teeth, pockets of pus may appear
along the gum line and further separate the teeth from the gum,
which allows more food and bacteria to accumulate. Without proper
treatment, this plaque and tartar buildup may cause periodontal
disease, which affects the tissue and structure supporting the
teeth. Periodontitis is irreversible and may lead to other health
problems later in life.
the inflamed gums of gingivitis, which can be treated and reversed
with thorough plaque removal and continued plaque control,
periodontitis can only be contained to prevent progression. The
disease causes red, swollen and tender gums, receding gums,
bleeding, pain and bad breath. If left untreated, periodontitis can
lead to tooth loss.
infection caused by periodontal disease may enter the bloodstream,
potentially infecting the heart, liver and kidneys.
owners should look for warning signs of oral disease. Common
indications of oral disease include bad breath, a change in eating
or chewing habits, pawing at the face or mouth and depression. If
any of these signs are present, the dog should be taken to the
veterinarian for a dental exam.
Dogs, just like us, can get cavities. They are much less rare,
though, as their diets are not high in
decay-causing sugars. Be sure not to feed any human foods or dog
treats with sugar, corn syrup, or any other kind of sweetener.
Tooth Brushing Help
Introduce tooth brushing slowly so it can be accepted by your dog or
cat. And brushing should be done at least two times a week. Initially it may be necessary
to just get them used to you lifting their lip without struggle to examine the teeth. Then
reward with praise. Next, wrap some gauze around your finger and use it
like a toothbrush on your pet's teeth. Wipe all the teeth, front and back, with strokes
from the gumline to the tip of the tooth. Do this for one to two weeks until your guy is
familiar with having his or her gums & teeth rubbed. You can next try using a finger
brush and utilizing this same procedure. Gradually progress to a soft toothbrush that has been
soaked in warm water.
Begin by brushing the front teeth and then the upper and lower teeth in the back. The bristles should be held at a 45-degree angle to the
tooth surface (as shown here) and be moved in an oval motion. Scrub in the crevice where
the gums meet the teeth. Gently force the
bristle ends into the area found around the base of the tooth and into those spaces
between teeth. After ten short back-and-forth motions on 3 to 4 teeth at a time (there are
42 teeth in our adult dogs), move the brush to a new location. Most of your attention
should be focused on the outside of the upper teeth.
Dr. Pitcairn: Dentistry Problems
Animals like dogs and cats, being carnivores, have sharp teeth
designed for tearing flesh into pieces that are swallowed whole. Our
teeth, by contrast, are flat on the surface and used for grinding action
- an indication that we were not designed to be carnivores.
In the natural state, carnivores do not develop
calculus (tartar). Domesticated animals, in contrast, are not eating
their natural diet and the softer food accumulates on the outside of the
teeth in an area where it cannot easily be cleaned off. It is familiar
to us that we can put our tongue in between our teeth and the inside of
the cheeks to clean out accumulated food. Dogs and cats cannot do that
as their teeth are too sharp. In the natural state, carnivores keep the
outside teeth clean by gnawing on bones, a process you can still see
with both dogs and cats accustomed to eating bones. If you observe the
position they take, you will see that they use their side teeth in a
sliding motion along the bone and this scrapes off any residue left from
The obvious solution to the problem of tartar accumulation in
domestic animals is to give them bones to chew on. In my experience this
is the most effective method and, for many animals, will clean the teeth
to perfection. However, this cannot be always be accomplished. Some
animals are unwilling to eat bones, especially older cats. One has to
also be careful to supervise the initial eating of bones in animals
unfamiliar to them as some greedy animals will try to swallow them whole
leading to digestive problems. So these are useful rules to follow:
1. Feed bones that are too large to be swallowed.
2. Give only raw bones as cooked bones will splinter and can cause
stomach or intestinal damage when swallowed.
3. Do not give frozen bones as the can be too hard and cause the teeth
4. Start animals young with this practice and they will adapt to this
with intelligence. The older animals, first introduced to this
practice can try to swallow pieces too large.
If you cannot get your animal to eat bones or do not wish to do
this, the alternative is use other hard materials, like raw carrots,
hard bread, etc. None of these will be as hard as bones, but will be a
To clean the teeth, one
can use a soft toothbrush and suitable ones are sold by veterinarians.
The most effective and useful treatment of the gums and teeth is make a
solution of vitamin C and water. Use the ratio of 1/2 teaspoon of
vitamin C to a cup of water. Dip the brush into this solution and gently
rub it back and forth along the teeth, especially where the gums and
teeth meet. Only the outside of the teeth needs to be done. Once a day
will be sufficient.
In my experience, dogs and
cats that regularly eat bones do not need to have their teeth cleaned in
If the gums have become inflamed, e.g.,
red and swollen or discharging pus, then an excellent treatment is to
use the herb Myrhh. Make a dilution by adding 1 teaspoon of the tincture
(the alcoholic extract) to a cup of water. Gently apply this to the gums
once or twice a day. Either use a soft toothbrush or, if the gums are
too sensitive for this, flush the gums with this solution using a
If your animal has developed abscessed
teeth, ones that are loose or that have holes in them, a dentistry may
be necessary to clean up the situation. Usually the teeth are removed,
the rest cleaned. After this you can put into practice the advice given
Some animals are especially prone to gum
disease and a very useful supplement for them is CoEnzyme Q10, a natural
substance found in the body. Given as a white powder in a capsule, the
amount to use if 10 mg a day for cats and 30 – 60 mg a day in dogs,
depending on their size. This can be added to food. As a safe
nutritional supplement it can be used indefinitely as long as the need
A very useful adjunct for animals with
recurrent or persistence mouth disease is individualized homeopathic
treatment. It is not uncommon for some factor like previous illness,
vaccinations, prior use of drugs to weaken an animal in the direction of
excessive tooth decay or gum disease. If the treatments mentioned above
are not sufficient, then this is the next recommended step.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you ever recommend professional ultrasonic teeth cleaning? You do so
in the 1982 edition of your book for calculus build up.
I do recommend this procedure. The suggestions for
dental care (above) are intended to make such a procedure unnecessary
but if it is not sufficient, then yes, I recommend that professional
cleaning be done. It is very difficult to do a satisfactory cleaning on
a conscious animal. The calculus is right up to the gum line and it is
necessary to move the probe under the gum to remove that part. Animals
do not understand the need for that temporary discomfort and will not be
still and even can injure the practitioner.
so, do you have a type of anesthesia you recommend, or a particular
I have the same recommendation as most vets, e.g., use of Isoflurone
gas. It has the advantages of fast recovery. The procedure of teeth
cleaning is like what is done for people, using a probe tooth by tooth
to remove calculus. In addition, there is usually a manual probing of
the integrity of each tooth. Hidden decay is revealed by sudden
penetration through the side of the tooth with the probe, with sharp
pain to the animal. Without anesthesia, there will be difficulty
continuing past the first one.
My vet uses
Isoflurone gas, but also routinely gives atropine, acepromozine, and
telozol by I.V. beforehand to minimize trauma (he said the animal will
struggle against the gas unless somewhat sedated first). What do you
think of this procedure?
I think what is
suggested is rather standard and a way that will be easiest on your dog.
The pre-anesthetic drugs make induction easier and recovery smoother as
they allay anxiety and pain.
Finally, do you
recommend any pre, or post-anesthesia homeopathic remedies to speed
recovery and to minimize damage from anesthesia? If so, what?
My routine recommendation for post dental treatment is to give a
dose of Arnica 30c after the animal has recovered completely. This is
usually sufficient. In the rare case, for discomfort extending into the
second day, I advise one dose of Hypericum 30c on that second day.
To facilitate the processing of the drugs
administered, give these three vitamins before and after the surgery. Do
this for 3 days before and 3 days after.
Vitamin A: 10,000 IU once a day.
Vitamin E: 100 IU once a day.
Vitamin C: 250 mg once a day.
Why is there
tooth decay in my animal when I have followed your suggestions as to
diet, using a home prepared diet?
There are two major reasons why tooth decay occurs in animals and
these are use of commercial foods and vaccination. If you have been
feeding a good quality home diet using raw meat and tooth decay still
occurs, it is likely because your animal has been vaccinated in the
past. It is one of the side effects of vaccination that there will be
decay with even the best of foods.
The type of
decay is peculiar to vaccine influence, that is that it occurs at the
juncture of the gums and the teeth, what are called "neck lesions."
Though there can be other places affected and even looseness of the
teeth as part of this syndrome, it is the presence of these "neck
lesions" which tell me that the vaccines are responsible. In these
cases, the only solution, in terms of long term prevention of recurrence
of the problem, is to give homeopathic treatment to that animal. The
vaccines in some will cause a permanent distortion of health, one that
cannot be corrected by diet alone.
FAIR USE NOTICE
This article contains
copyrighted material, the use of
which has not always been specifically authorized by the
copyright owner. I am making such material available in
my efforts to provide background knowledge on areas
related to canine cancer. I believe this constitutes a
'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided
for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In
Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107,
the material in this article is distributed without
profit for educational purposes.
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