Leba III ... A Natural Dental Cleaner for People & their Dogs
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Leba III Natural Dental Cleaner for Tartar  FREE USA SHIPPING!
"If you've ever tried to brush your animal's teeth, you'll know it isn't the most pleasant task. Imagine how much easier it would be if you could just pop something in his mouth that would clean his teeth simply and naturally. Enter Leba III, an easy-to-use herbal product that you spray in your animal's mouth every day. Leba III works by stimulating the enzymes in the saliva and gradually cleaning away the plaque buildup that can lead to periodontal disease. The product not only does away with home brushing but also helps protect your pet from the trauma of undergoing anesthesia for a professional cleaning."   Tim Hockley, President of Animal Wellness Magazine

Leba III, which had a 100% response in double blind testing, keeps your dog's teeth clean with just 1-2 sprays at morning and 1-2 sprays at night. We believe our dogs do better on a twice-a-day regimen, having used the product since January 2005. We even use it ourselves as it keeps your teeth feeling so smooth.

For smaller dogs and cats who have smaller mouth openings, you may want to utilize an eye dropper. First, spray the desired amount into the clear cap. Next, use the dropper to remove the liquid from the cap, and squirt out onto your pet's tongue. To prevent contamination, then clean the cap and dropper so that you will be ready for the next application.

INGREDIENTS: Distilled water, Ethyl alcohol 25%, Lamiaceae & Rosaceae in trace elements. The 1-ounce bottle contains approximately 240 sprays.

ADMINISTRATION: Keep at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Give no water or food hour before & hour after spraying into your dog's mouth onto the tongue. Leba III is not be used with any other dental products (e.g., products added to drinking water). As toothpaste leaves a residue on the teeth, only warm water or tooth oil (below) is recommended when brushing.

Under 50lbs = 1 spray a.m. / 1spray p.m.
Over 50lbs
= 2 sprays a.m. / 2 sprays p.m.

NOTE: This item is only available to USA customers, with a USA email address as well.

Come Chew on These Facts

Puppies have 28 temporary teeth that erupt at about three to four weeks of age. They have 42 permanent teeth that begin to emerge at about four months.

Oral disease is the most frequently diagnosed health problem for dogs. It begins with a buildup of bacteria in the dog's mouth. Unfortunately, lots of people don't realize that there is a need for preventive dental care until they notice their dog's breath has become unbearable.

Just feeding a dry food and offering hard bones will not keep your dog's teeth clean as harder foods are unable to remove plaque below the gum line. Giving your dog very hard objects is actually a primary cause of broken teeth. According to Thomas Mulligan, DVM, a board-certified veterinary dentist, "That's [plaque] the real enemy. The bristles of a toothbrush can reach into the groove along the gum line. That's where all the action is."

Aggressive chewing on hard objects, such as commercially available cow hooves, is a primary cause of broken teeth in dogs. But, chewing on hard toys can be dangerous as well. To help prevent such breakage, watch to see how your dog chews on his toys. If s/he is aggressively biting down, trying to crack the toy, do not let your dog continue. If you have any aggressive chewers, look for toys they cannot get their mouths around. Chews that soften as the dog chews are an additional option.

An astounding 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of oral disease by age three, according to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS). Yet, by providing good oral hygiene for our furry guys, we can extend their lives by two to five years!

Bacteria, combined with saliva and food debris between the tooth and gum, can cause plaque formulations that accumulate on the tooth. As bacteria grow in the plaque and as calcium salts are deposited, plaque turns to tartar. Symptoms of gum disease in dogs include yellow and brown build-up of tartar along the gum line, inflamed gums and persistent bad breath.

If tartar is not removed from the teeth, pockets of pus may appear along the gum line and further separate the teeth from the gum, which allows more food and bacteria to accumulate. Without proper treatment, this plaque and tartar buildup may cause periodontal disease, which affects the tissue and structure supporting the teeth. Periodontitis is irreversible and may lead to other health problems later in life.

Unlike the inflamed gums of gingivitis, which can be treated and reversed with thorough plaque removal and continued plaque control, periodontitis can only be contained to prevent progression. The disease causes red, swollen and tender gums, receding gums, bleeding, pain and bad breath. If left untreated, periodontitis can lead to tooth loss.

The infection caused by periodontal disease may enter the bloodstream, potentially infecting the heart, liver and kidneys.

Dog owners should look for warning signs of oral disease. Common indications of oral disease include bad breath, a change in eating or chewing habits, pawing at the face or mouth and depression. If any of these signs are present, the dog should be taken to the veterinarian for a dental exam.

Dogs, just like us, can get cavities. They are much less rare, though, as their diets are not high in decay-causing sugars. Be sure not to feed any human foods or dog treats with sugar, corn syrup, or any other kind of sweetener.

Tooth Brushing Help
Hold the brush this way!Introduce tooth brushing slowly so it can be accepted by your dog or cat. And brushing should be done at least two times a week. Initially it may be necessary to just get them used to you lifting their lip without struggle to examine the teeth. Then reward with praise. Next, wrap some gauze around your finger and use it like a toothbrush on your pet's teeth. Wipe all the teeth, front and back, with strokes from the gumline to the tip of the tooth. Do this for one to two weeks until your guy is familiar with having his or her gums & teeth rubbed. You can next try using a finger brush and utilizing this same procedure. Gradually progress to a soft toothbrush that has been soaked in warm water.

Begin by brushing the front teeth and then the upper and lower teeth in the back. The bristles should be held at a 45-degree angle to the tooth surface (as shown here) and be moved in an oval motion. Scrub in the crevice where the gums meet the teeth. Gently force the bristle ends into the area found around the base of the tooth and into those spaces between teeth. After ten short back-and-forth motions on 3 to 4 teeth at a time (there are 42 teeth in our adult dogs), move the brush to a new location. Most of your attention should be focused on the outside of the upper teeth.

Dr. Pitcairn: Dentistry Problems

Animals like dogs and cats, being carnivores, have sharp teeth designed for tearing flesh into pieces that are swallowed whole. Our teeth, by contrast, are flat on the surface and used for grinding action - an indication that we were not designed to be carnivores.

In the natural state, carnivores do not develop calculus (tartar). Domesticated animals, in contrast, are not eating their natural diet and the softer food accumulates on the outside of the teeth in an area where it cannot easily be cleaned off. It is familiar to us that we can put our tongue in between our teeth and the inside of the cheeks to clean out accumulated food. Dogs and cats cannot do that as their teeth are too sharp. In the natural state, carnivores keep the outside teeth clean by gnawing on bones, a process you can still see with both dogs and cats accustomed to eating bones. If you observe the position they take, you will see that they use their side teeth in a sliding motion along the bone and this scrapes off any residue left from eating.

The obvious solution to the problem of tartar accumulation in domestic animals is to give them bones to chew on. In my experience this is the most effective method and, for many animals, will clean the teeth to perfection. However, this cannot be always be accomplished. Some animals are unwilling to eat bones, especially older cats. One has to also be careful to supervise the initial eating of bones in animals unfamiliar to them as some greedy animals will try to swallow them whole leading to digestive problems. So these are useful rules to follow:

1. Feed bones that are too large to be swallowed.
2. Give only raw bones as cooked bones will splinter and can cause stomach or intestinal damage when swallowed.
3. Do not give frozen bones as the can be too hard and cause the teeth to break.
4. Start animals young with this practice and they will adapt to this with intelligence. The older animals, first introduced to this
     practice can try to swallow pieces too large.

Alternative Treatments
If you cannot get your animal to eat bones or do not wish to do this, the alternative is use other hard materials, like raw carrots, hard bread, etc. None of these will be as hard as bones, but will be a reasonable substitute.

To clean the teeth, one can use a soft toothbrush and suitable ones are sold by veterinarians. The most effective and useful treatment of the gums and teeth is make a solution of vitamin C and water. Use the ratio of 1/2 teaspoon of vitamin C to a cup of water. Dip the brush into this solution and gently rub it back and forth along the teeth, especially where the gums and teeth meet. Only the outside of the teeth needs to be done. Once a day will be sufficient.

In my experience, dogs and cats that regularly eat bones do not need to have their teeth cleaned in this way.

If the gums have become inflamed, e.g., red and swollen or discharging pus, then an excellent treatment is to use the herb Myrhh. Make a dilution by adding 1 teaspoon of the tincture (the alcoholic extract) to a cup of water. Gently apply this to the gums once or twice a day. Either use a soft toothbrush or, if the gums are too sensitive for this, flush the gums with this solution using a syringe.

If your animal has developed abscessed teeth, ones that are loose or that have holes in them, a dentistry may be necessary to clean up the situation. Usually the teeth are removed, the rest cleaned. After this you can put into practice the advice given above.

Some animals are especially prone to gum disease and a very useful supplement for them is CoEnzyme Q10, a natural substance found in the body. Given as a white powder in a capsule, the amount to use if 10 mg a day for cats and 30 – 60 mg a day in dogs, depending on their size. This can be added to food. As a safe nutritional supplement it can be used indefinitely as long as the need is there.

A very useful adjunct for animals with recurrent or persistence mouth disease is individualized homeopathic treatment. It is not uncommon for some factor like previous illness, vaccinations, prior use of drugs to weaken an animal in the direction of excessive tooth decay or gum disease. If the treatments mentioned above are not sufficient, then this is the next recommended step.

Frequently Asked Questions
Do you ever recommend professional ultrasonic teeth cleaning? You do so in the 1982 edition of your book for calculus build up.

I do recommend this procedure. The suggestions for dental care (above) are intended to make such a procedure unnecessary but if it is not sufficient, then yes, I recommend that professional cleaning be done. It is very difficult to do a satisfactory cleaning on a conscious animal. The calculus is right up to the gum line and it is necessary to move the probe under the gum to remove that part. Animals do not understand the need for that temporary discomfort and will not be still and even can injure the practitioner.

If so, do you have a type of anesthesia you recommend, or a particular procedure?
I have the same recommendation as most vets, e.g., use of Isoflurone gas. It has the advantages of fast recovery. The procedure of teeth cleaning is like what is done for people, using a probe tooth by tooth to remove calculus. In addition, there is usually a manual probing of the integrity of each tooth. Hidden decay is revealed by sudden penetration through the side of the tooth with the probe, with sharp pain to the animal. Without anesthesia, there will be difficulty continuing past the first one.

My vet uses Isoflurone gas, but also routinely gives atropine, acepromozine, and telozol by I.V. beforehand to minimize trauma (he said the animal will struggle against the gas unless somewhat sedated first). What do you think of this procedure?

I think what is suggested is rather standard and a way that will be easiest on your dog. The pre-anesthetic drugs make induction easier and recovery smoother as they allay anxiety and pain.

Finally, do you recommend any pre, or post-anesthesia homeopathic remedies to speed recovery and to minimize damage from anesthesia? If so, what?
My routine recommendation for post dental treatment is to give a dose of Arnica 30c after the animal has recovered completely. This is usually sufficient. In the rare case, for discomfort extending into the second day, I advise one dose of Hypericum 30c on that second day.

To facilitate the processing of the drugs administered, give these three vitamins before and after the surgery. Do this for 3 days before and 3 days after.
Vitamin A: 10,000 IU once a day.
Vitamin E: 100 IU once a day.
Vitamin C: 250 mg once a day.

Why is there tooth decay in my animal when I have followed your suggestions as to diet, using a home prepared diet?
There are two major reasons why tooth decay occurs in animals and these are use of commercial foods and vaccination. If you have been feeding a good quality home diet using raw meat and tooth decay still occurs, it is likely because your animal has been vaccinated in the past. It is one of the side effects of vaccination that there will be decay with even the best of foods.

The type of decay is peculiar to vaccine influence, that is that it occurs at the juncture of the gums and the teeth, what are called "neck lesions." Though there can be other places affected and even looseness of the teeth as part of this syndrome, it is the presence of these "neck lesions" which tell me that the vaccines are responsible. In these cases, the only solution, in terms of long term prevention of recurrence of the problem, is to give homeopathic treatment to that animal. The vaccines in some will cause a permanent distortion of health, one that cannot be corrected by diet alone.

This article contains copyrighted material, the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. I am making such material available in my efforts to provide background knowledge on areas related to canine cancer. I believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material in this article is distributed without profit for educational purposes.

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